Identification of textiles
The starting material for textiles is fiber. Textile fibers are soft, elastic, have a certain strength, and are resistant to friction and tensile properties. Among the natural fibers, cotton, flax, jute, ramie and other plant fibers, wool, camel, cashmere, rabbit hair, silk animal fiber. Chemical cellulose fibers and protein fibers are rayon fibers, and polyester fibers, polyamide fibers, polyacrylonitrile fibers, and acetate fibers are all synthetic fibers. Woven and knitting in textiles are the two most important methods of composition. The mechanism is divided into five categories: cotton, wool, linen, silk and chemical fiber. Knitted fabrics can be divided into clothing, socks, gloves and scarves. And five categories of knitted chemical fiber fabrics.
Identification of textile fibers usually includes sensory identification, combustion, microscopic observation, and chemical dissolution. It is often necessary to observe the test in several different ways to get the correct conclusion.
Sensory identification: It is the identification of fibers and fabrics by hand touch and eye. Hand touch is to identify the softness, elasticity and wrinkles of the fabric; it is to see the gloss, thickness, length, and bending form of the fiber or fabric. The characteristics of various fabric fibers are as follows:
Cotton: The fiber has natural curl, the fiber is thin and short, the length can reach about 38mm, the elasticity is poor, the hand feels soft and the gloss is dim.
Wool: The fiber is long and curly, with good elasticity, luster and warm hand. The fabric is not easy to wrinkle when it is rubbed, and the hand feels smooth and crisp. Wool is usually referred to as curled hair on a sheep and straight hair on a goat.
Cashmere: refers to the undercoat on the goatskin. Compared with wool, cashmere feels softer, smoother and more detailed.
Silk: Silk is the longest and thinnest in natural fiber, with good strength, soft and smooth handfeel (the tussah silk is slightly thicker than mulberry silk), the hand touch has a cool feeling, and the force is pulled down in the dry and wet state. There is no obvious difference between hemp: the fiber is slender, the strength is large. The texture is rough, lacks elasticity and luster, and the fabric feels rough and has a cool feeling.
Man-made fiber: low fiber strength, easy to break after wetting, poor elasticity, scattered ciliated material at the broken end, quickly relax after grasping the fabric with hands, and its wrinkles are more and more obvious.
Nylon; high fiber strength, large recovery elongation, not easy to break, fabric elasticity is better than rayon, silk, rough feel.
Polyester: The fabric has the best elasticity, no wrinkles and no wrinkles, and the hand feels very slippery (the common name is really cool).
Acrylic fiber: The fabric is fluffy, soft and wooly, but the color is not soft, the hand feels dry and the elasticity is low.
Weilun: The fabric has poor elasticity, easy to fold and wrinkle, and the taste is hard and the color is not bright.
Combustion identification method: cut a small piece of cloth or pull a few fibers to burn, according to the observation of fiber burning, whether there is shrinkage and melting, burning difficulty, flame color, burning speed, taste, ash color and traits to judge.
Before burning, the drawn warp or weft yarns can be opened to see if they are filaments or staple fibers. If it is short fiber, the length is different, such as cotton, wool and other natural fibers; if the length of the fiber is the same, it is viscose or synthetic fiber. If it is a filament, it may be a sticky filament or silk. The difference between the two is that the sticky filament is brighter than the silk, and then the silk is moistened with the tip of the tongue. If the wet area is easily broken, it is a sticky filament. If it is constantly in a wet place, it is silk. Regardless of whether the fiber is dry or wet, it is not easy to break, that is, synthetic fiber. Then the combustion identification is performed.
Cotton and linen: Burning faster, high flame, can spread automatically, leaving a small amount of soft white or gray ash, no coking. Hemp fibers have a popping sound when burned in a flame.
Wool: Burning is not fast, the flame is small, it is extinguished from the fire, there is protein odor after burning, the ash is curled, dark brown crystal, loose and brittle.
Silk: It can burn but does not prolong the burning. It shrinks into a ball after the fire. It has a buzzing sound when burned. It has a protein odor after burning. It is similar to wool. It burns into a dark brown ball and is easily broken into powder ash. shape.
Viscose fiber: It is burning near the flame, has a burning paper smell, leaving a trace of gray ash, easy to disperse and fly.
Nylon fiber: melt before burning, self-extinguishing from the fire, slightly celery when burning, leaving a hard yellow spherical ash after burning.
Polyester: When the fiber is curled, it burns on one side, smokes on one side, the flame is yellow, has a weak sweet taste, and leaves a dark brown lumps after burning.
Liquor: Slowly burns while melting. The white flame is brighter, sometimes with a slight black smoke, and has a slightly fishy smell. The gray is black and spherical.
Velon: When burning, the fiber melts rapidly and shrinks. It burns slowly, the flame is small, it is red, it has sweetness of flowers, and the ash is brown lumps.
Chlorine: It is difficult to burn, shrinks when it is close to the flame, it is extinguished when it is burned, it has a pungent smell of chlorine gas, and the gray is an irregular black block.
Polypropylene: one side curled up, one side melted and burned. The flame is bright, blue, slightly smelling like asphalt, and the ash is light yellowish brown after burning.
Remember: all the ash after burning of the burning fiber is broken at the touch; from the scent, the plant fiber has the smell of burnt paper, the animal fiber has the smell of burning hair, and the ash of the burning of chemical fiber Is a lumpy block, not the first two
Burn paper or burn hair smell.
Several major textile identification
Silk identification: Silk is divided into raw materials, mainly silk and chemical fiber. Silk fabrics are made of silk. The common feature is high moisture absorption rate (5%-10%), good air permeability, smooth and soft texture, elastic, silky natural luster, bright and soft. Ignite silk fiber, burning slowly and smelling hair. The thread is untwisted and the filaments are continuous. Comfortable and cool. Commercially available silk fabrics include scorpion, electric spinning, satin, qiaoyun yarn, qiaoqi yarn, Hangluo, Hangzhou spinning, silk silk and other varieties. The surface of the double cymbal has fine scales, the texture is soft and elastic; the electric spinning is smooth and smooth, the luster is smooth and sturdy; the woven spun texture is thick and firm; the enamel is smooth and smooth, and the texture is tight; the choline yarn is transparent and elegant, and the drape is good; The silk is soft and shiny.
Chemical fiber simulation silk fabric, raw materials are mainly synthetic fibers, some are man-made fibers and silk blends, or pure man-made fibers, synthetic fiber fabrics, such as nylon, polyester, polyester, etc., after special treatment, the surface is similar Silk style. The silk fabric is easy to wash and dry, does not shrink, has poor gas permeability and moisture absorption, and has a stuffy feeling when worn. Man-made fiber silk fabric, sticky, rough, silky surface is easy to wrinkle, shiny and glaring, bright color, low shrinkage, thick and flat monofilament, neat hair when broken, easier to tear after wetting The igniting fiber has a burning paper or vinegar flavor. Synthetic fiber silk fabric, smooth and elastic, bright and dazzling, bright and dazzling, not easy to wrinkle, shrinkage rate less than 5%, monofilament thickness is uniform, not easy to tear. The fibers are ignited and the scent is different from silk fabrics.
Each silk fabric has a label with a set of numbers representing the silk number. There are five digits. The first digit represents the material used in the product, the second digit represents the fabric structure, and the back is the product serial number. In front of this set of numbers, capitalized English characters are also used.
The mother represents the place of origin of the goods. From the numbering of silk merchandise labels, the raw materials and origin of the products can be judged.
Identification of silk cotton: Using the combustion identification method, the viscose is chemical fiber, the odorless ash is cotton, the fur tastes, the black ash is burned, and the silk is like silk.
Pure woolen wool and wool-type chemical fiber woolen velvet identification: pure wool worsted woolen cloth (commonly known as "material") looks smooth and smooth, with clear texture, natural luster, rich oily, bright color, no old feeling, soft and soft handfeel Foot, excellent wrinkle resistance, relax after hand grasping, fabric can be quickly restored, leaving almost no trace. Pure wool woolen woolen cloth (commonly known as "witch"), thick and full, firm texture, soft and lubricious, good elasticity, hand touch has a warm feeling. Polyester-wool blending is dominated by worsted fabrics. The fabric gloss is worse than that of pure wool fabrics. It is not as soft as pure wool fabrics. The texture is clear, the hand feels smooth but the harder board. The fabric has good elasticity and is generally not easy to produce creases. Although it has a hairy taste, the ash is a dark brown induration. The viscose and wool blend fabrics are mostly roving, the gloss is darker, the thin fabric has a similar feeling to cotton, the hand feels soft but not stiff, the elasticity is poor, the ash is not completely dark brown when burning, and the grayish ash is sticky. Glue fiber. The wool-like chemical fiber fabric has similar appearance, but the hand is not weak or hard. It has no burning hair when burning, and has a burning paper smell or other taste. The ash is mostly black, gray and other beaded induration.
Wool identification: pure wool yarn and blended wool, the appearance of pure wool yarn is round and plump, the line of the hand-kick line is clear and uniform, the bulk is not hairy, the surface is smooth and not hairy, the strip is even and the elasticity is good, hand rubbing It can be quickly restored after loosening the hand, and it feels soft and delicate. The high-quality bristles are dry and round, the four strands are straight and non-curling, the elasticity is good, the force is sturdy, the sound is innocent, the color is bright, and the luster is naturally not glaring. When burning, the wool does not burn fast, the flame is small, it is extinguished from the fire, the protein smell is burned, and the ash is curled into dark brown crystal. The fiber of the chemical fiber such as the bandage is slowly burned while melting, the white flame is brighter, sometimes there is a slight black smoke, and there is a fish smell, and the ash is a black-gray ball.
Identification of cashmere: Cashmere is a layer of fine fluff from the cashmere goat (also known as cashmere goat). The diameter of the fluff is 14-17um and the length is 30~45mm. The cashmere fiber is composed of cortical layer and scale layer. The cross section of the fiber is elliptical. The shape of a cashmere goat is only about 75g per year. The cashmere of five cashmere goats is only enough to weave a regular cashmere sweater. From the perspective of external concept, cashmere has a natural luster, soft and rich handfeel, soft, light, warm, slippery, elastic, and good gloss. It is known as the “king of fiberâ€. The cashmere fiber has a short length and low strength, and the scales covered by the fiber surface are thin and thin, and are attached to each other. Since the number of fiber crimps is less than that of wool, the friction coefficient is smaller than that of wool, so the fibers are smoother, the cohesive force between the fibers is poor, and the fluffing property is worse than wool, but the hand feels slippery. Although the cashmere fiber has less curl, it has a large curling depth. Generally, the cashmere straightness is more than 300%, and the 64 merino wool is only 160%. Therefore, the cashmere product is warm and flammable to wool. Under the same temperature and humidity conditions, cashmere is easier to absorb than wool. In a few seconds in the water, the cashmere fiber can be wet, while the wool takes a few minutes. Since the world's cashmere production is only 1% of wool production, the price of cashmere is ten times that of wool, which is the most precious animal fiber. Because cashmere fiber is thinner than wool, cashmere fabric is easy to pilling when worn, and the cohesion between fibers is poor; cashmere yarn has low strength and poor fastness compared with wool, and should avoid contact with hard objects when wearing; because cashmere fiber is easy to absorb moisture, easy It should be washed and folded when it is collected, placed in a suitcase with anti-caries agent or a plastic bag with several holes.
Identification of cotton wool: high-quality cotton wool, should be white shiny, smooth and smooth, fluffy and soft, squat in the hand feel light, long and no dust. Inferior cotton, color gray and dark, with velvet hair, thick and thick, the squat is a heavy feeling, the fiber is short and the dust is flying after the shot.
Identification of fluffy cotton: Fluffy cotton is a new type of winter wadding material, also known as fiber styling flakes or sprayed cotton. Fluffy cotton produces a lot of raw materials, variety, when looking at the price: a strand of acrylic fiber and cotton styling flakes are cheaper, while wool, camel hair, silk cotton styling flakes are more expensive; two use fire: take a bit of shaped flakes It is fired and completely melted. It is an acrylic fiber. It is not completely melted. It has a burning paper smell which is shaped cotton. If it has a singeing smell, it may be wool, camel hair or silk. For further identification, look at the fiber: wool, camel hair is limited in length, the general length is not more than 10cm, and the silk is thin and long (10cm or more). Identify wool, camel hair to see the color, wool is white, camel hair is brown, you can see at a glance.
The identification of the towel: The quality of the towel is checked and can be checked from five aspects. A look at the number of loops. The towel is a double-faced looped fabric with many raised loops on the surface, which is the main symbol of the quality of the towel. Good quality towel, positive
On each of the opposite sides, the loops are long and long, thick and soft, easy to absorb and store water; the poor quality of the towel, the short and few terry, not rich enough. The second is the weight of the glutinous rice. A good quality towel is used, the weight is heavier; the poor quality towel is lighter. You can use the method of estimating and comparing to select good products with heavy weight. The third is to argue against the yarn. The weaving towel is used for the yarn, the better the quality, the higher the yarn. High-grade towels are usually interwoven with 32 and 21; mid-range towels are woven with 21 or 20; low-grade towels are woven with 21 or 16 yarns. The fourth is soft and hard. The yarn of the woven towel is divided into the mature yarn and the raw yarn, and the cooked yarn is durable and the raw yarn is poor. It can be distinguished by hand, and the cooked yarn is soft to the touch. Raw yarn feels harder. It can also be distinguished by the difference between the water absorption and the strength. The water is taken from the water. The height of the team is 20 to 30 cm, and the towel is dripped. If the water droplets are sucked in immediately, the yarn is woven. If the water absorption rate is slow, the yarn is woven. Five check weaving fine. The towel is tiled or dialyzed against the sun to see if there is any breakage, weft break, exposed bottom (ie, no hairiness), napped, thin road, uneven loops, raw edges, curling, false edges, tooth edges, seams Weaving defects such as edges and jumpers, and whether there are appearance defects such as bleeding, rust stains, stains, printing materials, and blurring. If not, it indicates that the quality is high, only a small amount of quality is generally, and more quality is poor.
The above method can also be used to identify fabrics such as towels, towel pajamas, bath towels, and the like.
Some textiles have quality markings:
The quality mark of silk cotton: the red brand trademark is the first grade; the green brand trademark is the second grade; the white brand trademark is the third grade.
The quality mark of the cloth: the label printed with the red character is the first-class product; the label printed with the green character is the second-class product; the label printed with the blue character is the third-class product; the label printed with the black character is the external product.
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