Differences in testing standards for textile color fastness
Author; Zhou Wei, Huang Yiwei (Shanghai Fiber Inspection Institute, Shanghai, 200040)
Abstract: Color fastness to rubbing, color fastness to soaping and color fastness to light and sweat are closely related to the quality of textiles. This paper analyzes the similarities and differences of color fastness testing standards among three major domestic and international standard systems. A review of recent domestic related research and recommendations based on his own work experience.
Key words: color fastness; difference; standard; textile
Introduction Color fastness refers to the resistance of textile color to various effects during processing and use. The effect can be divided into extrusion, friction, water washing, raining, exposure, etc. It is a test in the inherent quality test of textiles. Routine testing items.
At present, there are many kinds of international color fastness standard test methods, and the color fastness series standards formulated by the International Organization for Standardization (ISO) and the American Association of Textile Chemists and Dyers (AATCC) are the most authoritative. The standard method for the color fastness of textiles used in China is GB/T series, which is equivalent to the ISO series standard or slightly modified in the ISO series standard, so the difference between the two is small. The standards set by AATCC are mainly applicable to the US market, and the ISO series standards dominated by the EU market and the GB series standards dominated by the Chinese market are quite different. Most of the Japanese Industrial Standards (JIS) adopt ISO-related standards, and a small number of them refer to the AATCC standard, and some retain the test methods unique to Japan. Therefore, it has certain differences with GB, AATCC and other standards.
This paper is aimed at three kinds of standard methods (GB, AATCC and JIS) which are used in the field of textile testing in China, and have three methods for detecting color fastness to rubbing, color fastness to washing, and color fastness to light and sweat. The similarities and differences are compared and analyzed, and relevant researches are reviewed in recent years, and combined with their own work experience, they put forward their own views.
1 Color fastness to rubbing The principle of rubbing fastness is to rub the textile samples with a dry rubbing cloth and a wet rubbing cloth, and finally assess the degree of staining of the rubbing cloth. Commonly used standards are GB/T 3920-2008, AATCC 8-2007, AATCC 116-2010 and JIS L 0849-2004. The similarities and differences between the four standards are shown in Table 1.
It can be seen from Table 1 that there are large differences in the size of the sample, the number of frictions, the moisture content of the friction cloth, and the grey card for rating. The results of testing according to different standards may vary.
Li Juzhu [1] and other tests according to ISO, GB, AATCC, JIS four standards, the analysis obtained the same fabric using different standard test data will have a deviation of 0.5 ~ 1.0, JIS detection method stained the most serious, followed by It is AATCC, and the GB detection method is the lightest, the result is the number of rubbing and the way of rubbing
Table 1 Similarities and differences of rubbing fastness standards
Related, JIS has the most friction.
Qi Baojing [2] and others found that compared with the rubbing fastness of JIS and ISO, not only the friction tester type I in the ISO standard was retained, but also the friction tester type II was added, and it was pointed out that the type II test machine was widely used in Japan. The test results are not comparable due to different instruments.
AATCC 116-2010 (Rotary Friction Method) is suitable for yarns or fabrics made of various fibers. It is especially suitable for printed fabrics. It can test areas smaller than the size required by AATCC 8-2007 and can clearly reflect multicolor. The color fastness to rubbing of various colors of fabrics helps to quickly find out the cause of poor color fastness to rubbing of multi-color fabrics, so as to take measures to improve the color fastness to rubbing.
In the rubbing color fastness test, due to irregular weaving of the fabric or uneven dyeing, it is easy to cause multiple friction results to be inconsistent, and it is accidental. It is necessary to take multiple measures and report the results with high repeatability. For the problem that the friction result is shallow in the middle and the edge is deep, it is recommended that the testing institutions reach an agreement, or evaluate the overall staining situation, or strictly determine the deepest edge. 2 The color fastness to soaping is based on the principle that the sample is sewn together with the standard lining fabric and washed under suitable conditions of time, temperature, alkalinity and friction for a short period of time. The discoloration of the sample and the staining of the standard lining fabric were obtained. Commonly used standards are GB/T 3921-2008, GB/T 12490-2007, AATCC 61-2010 and JIS L 0844-2011. The similarities and differences between the four standards are shown in Table 2.
It can be seen from Table 2 that there are large differences in the types of lining fabrics, the types of reagents, the test methods, and the gray cards used for rating. Among them, the selection of reagent varieties requires special attention, different standards or different methods in the same standard. The reagents selected are different.
Liu Wei [3] and others compared the color fastness to soaping under the three test methods of GB, AATCC and JIS, and found that the staining of the JIS method is slightly serious, because the stained lining and the sample are stitched on the four sides in the JIS test method. The concentration of free dye on the surface of the fabric is large, and AATCC is slightly more severe than other two standards due to the large amount of steel balls and long washing time.
Table 2 Standards and similarities of soap fastness
Huang Lin [4] studied the effects of dye structure, dyeing and post-treatment processes on the color fastness to soaping. It was found that the poor color fastness to soaping was mainly related to the floating color of the cloth surface and the transfer of some colored fiber particles.
Zhao Mingang, Zhou Xiaojin [5] comparing the soap fastness test methods of Chinese garments, some product standards do not specify which one of A, B, C, D, E in GB/T 3921-2008 is used, resulting in There is a big difference in data between inspection agencies. In another part of the product standard, the soap-washing methods used in fabrics and garments are inconsistent and there is no effective connection.
There are many soap-washing methods in JIS L 0844-2011. The inspection should be treated differently according to the type of fabric, the required washing temperature and other factors.
According to the author's many years of experience, the soaping fastness bath has a great influence on the results. Therefore, the bath ratio should be strictly controlled in the actual operation to ensure the accuracy of the results.
3 Light fastness and sweat composite color fastness The principle of light fastness and sweat composite color fastness is that the artificial sweat treated sample and the blue wool standard sample are placed in a light resistance tester at the same time and exposed to light under specified conditions. When the fading of the blue wool standard reaches the end point, the sample is taken out and the color change level is evaluated using a gray card or a blue wool standard. Commonly used standards are GB/T 14576-2009, SN/T 1461-2004, AATCC 125-2009 and JIS L 0888-2009. The similarities and differences between the four standards are shown in Tables 3 and 4.
It can be seen from Table 3 that the type of solar tester and the end point of exposure selected by different standards are inconsistent. JIS mostly uses carbon arc lamp, AATCC determines the end point of exposure according to exposure to the required AFU (AATCC fade unit), while others The three method standards are based on the blue wool standard discoloration to achieve the gray card level to determine the exposure end point.
As can be seen from Table 4, the sweat types used in different standards are different, and the sweat composition of GB/T and AATCC is different, and AATCC only uses a kind of acid sweat for detection.
Ding Xuemei et al [6] compared the light fastness standards of GB, AATCC and JIS, and analyzed the impact of factors such as equipment, artificial sweat components, lighting methods and conditions, post-sun cleaning and rating methods on the rating results. It is pointed out that when the surfactant is used to remove the stain on the sample in the JIS standard, the fading of the sample will be caused, which will affect the rating. Lu Xiaoli et al [7] studied the effects of different sweat components on the light fastness to light. The research shows that the test results of ATTS artificial sweat are consistent with the actual wearing fading effect of high-humidity and high-temperature climate people. The labor of GB/T 14576-2009 The test results of sweat are close to the actual wear fading effect of the dry climate population.
Zhou Lijie et al [8] compared the test results of the new and old standards of GB/T 14576 and found that the number of grades obtained according to the new standard test is higher than the old standard, which leads to conflicts between method standards and product standards, and the evaluation value of some product standards. Meaningless. The reason for the analysis is that when the standard is formulated, the influence of the change of the test method on the size of the test value is not taken into consideration, which leads to the disconnection between the method standard and the product standard.
In the inspection work, it is resistant to the test results.
Table 3 Standards and similarities of light fastness and sweat composite color fastness
Table 4 Similarities and differences of artificial sweat components
The liquid-carrying rate of light and sweat composite color fastness is not uniform because of the standard sampling. Therefore, the liquid-carrying rate tends to be inconsistent, resulting in deviation of results. It is also important to note that the discoloration of the fabric specified in SN/T 1461 is compared to the discoloration of the blue wool standard and the number of grades is assessed, which is different from the other grades used for gray cards.
4 Conclusion In summary, due to the similarities and differences between the color fastness testing standards in the three different standard systems, the same sample is tested according to different standards, and the results will be different. Therefore, the testing organization is required to fully grasp and understand the standards. The similarities and differences ensure that the test results are accurate and fair.
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[8] Zhou Lijie, Liang Xiaoyan, Xie Shuisheng, et al. Effect of changes in the standard of light fastness test method on test results [J]. China Fiber Inspection, 2010 (10): 47-49.
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