Fabric development highlights

Editor's note: The continuous development of new products and new achievements reflects the changing trend of domestic fabric companies to actively develop high value-added products and seek new space for development. It is also one of the important manifestations of the rapid development of the fabric industry. The texture and texture of the fabric will have an important impact on the function and visual effects of the clothing. Therefore, garment enterprises can not ignore the trend of research and development of fabric products, find opportunities in it, and discover the direction of future development.

In recent years, the research and development of China's textile fabrics has received great attention and extensive participation from many domestic scientific research institutes, universities and textile and garment enterprises, showing a rising trend with antibacterial, odor-reducing, fire-retardant, waterproof, moisture-permeable, oil-repellent, waterproof, and anti-resistance. New products such as oil, mosquito, and other functions emerge in endlessly. A review of textile fabric research results is mainly reflected in the improvement of the fabric's functionality, the use of new fiber materials, and the recycling of recycled materials.

Improve the process to improve fabric function

While focusing on the research and development of new fabric functions, the company also pays attention to the improvement of the process and the improvement of the performance of the original fabric.

Knitted fabrics are widely used in the production of sportswear, casual T-shirts, and underwear because of their flexibility, softness, wear comfort, and breathable coolness. They have always been a popular group in the textile market. However, due to the limitations of the structure of the knitted fabric itself, its dimensional stability, shape retention after washing and appearance after washing are generally inferior to those of woven fabrics, which affects the performance of the knitted fabric to some extent.

In May 2009, Youngor's "1000 tons of high-end value-added high-value knitted fabric finishing technology retrofit project" passed the acceptance and successfully solved the technical problems that have long plagued the industry's knit fabric batch liquid ammonia finishing. The project mainly focuses on improving the gloss and increasing the intellectualization of knitted fabrics, improving the process flow, optimizing the process conditions, organically combining liquid ammonia finishing with ultra-soft finishing, and making the fabrics luster after the liquid ammonia finishing. Feel soft, green and enzymatic enzyme washing process makes the fabric clear lines, feel smooth, more comfortable to wear, giving knitted fabric brand new textile materials to take function.

Clothing flame retardancy is also one of the focuses of research and development. Because most textiles have flammable properties, the fire hazards in everyday life are also ubiquitous. Therefore, the development and application of flame-retardant fibers and textiles have attracted attention from all walks of life. At present, many countries have formulated flame-retardant laws and regulations for textiles and garments. Britain, the United States, Japan, and other countries have also legally stipulated that women, children, the elderly, disabled people's clothing and pajamas must have flame-retardant functions, and must Marked on the product. Flame-retardant textile standards and environmentally friendly flame retardant production have therefore become important research topics. Traditional brominated flame retardants are subject to increasingly stringent environmental protection and flame-retardant regulations. Future flame retardants will also be more focused on environmental protection and ecological safety performance. Gradually achieve halogen-free and ecological.

China's functional textile R&D is expanding into many fields such as environmental protection, medical care, health, mining, nanotechnology, and chemical engineering, such as research on protective clothing and standards for electromagnetic radiation, development of outdoor sports functional textiles, printing and dyeing wastewater treatment, natural dyes, and plant functions. Dye, silver-plated fiber, anti-mosquito textiles, functional microcapsules, mulberry fiber, and medical cyclic decompression socks.

New fiber development and application

New fiber fabrics have become a hot spot for domestic fabric companies. Most of the new fiber fabrics are sold abroad and welcomed by foreign customers. At present, there are not many new fiber fabrics used by domestic garment companies.

Soft fiber. Rousi Fiber is a new type of differential fiber developed by Suzhou Hengguang Chemical Fiber Co., Ltd. Its raw materials are protein and cellulose fibers. It is derived from nature's renewable green plants and is a degradable and environmentally friendly fiber. Rose silk protein fiber contains an appropriate amount of protein and dozens of amino acids, and has affinity and health effects on human skin. At the same time, the luster is bright and soft, with good absorption and desorption, bright coloration, good softness, and good fabric drape. Especially worth mentioning is that the silk protein fiber is smooth and soft, and it is also a fiber that improves the feel of the fabric.

Rose fiber has far-infrared emission function, has good thermal effect, improves human microcirculation, has anti-ultraviolet function, is an excellent anti-ultraviolet fiber; has anion-releasing function, so that the negative ion concentration of the fabric is equivalent to the negative ion concentration in the valley, comfortable Sex meets the physiological needs of human skin. Rose is a cellulose fiber that breathes and absorbs sweat when it is hot. It moisturizes when it cools. It does not generate static electricity, and it is soft and comfortable. When the surface moisture of human skin is between 12%-15%, the skin is smooth and elastic, and once the skin becomes dry, it will become dry. The most comfortable relative humidity of the human body is between 45% and 65%. Therefore, textiles must have certain moisture absorption and air permeability.

Jiangsu Donghua Cotton Spinning Co., Ltd. carried out further development of Rousi fiber, conducted a large number of experiments in different blending proportions of the Rousi fiber, different yarn counts, different processing methods, etc., and provided the newly developed Rousi yarn separately. Knitted fabrics, seamless underwear and other downstream companies.

Pearl fiber denim fabric. Pearl has always been regarded as the beauty skin care products, and now, this effect has been used in denim clothing. The pearl fiber denim fabric developed under the leadership of Associate Professor Li Dongping of Donghua University's Clothing Institute has been successfully developed and will be launched on the market. The fabric, on the basis of keeping and optimising the denim style, has added skin care functions by adding pearl fibers.

According to Li Dongping, the pearl fiber added to the denim fabric is called Ricono Pearl Fiber and was jointly developed by Donghua University and Shanghai New Spinning Technology Development Center. According to the inspection of the national quality supervision department, the pearl fabric is added, its far-infrared emissivity reaches 0.84 or more, the ultraviolet protection coefficient (UPF) of the fabric can reach 35-50, and the far-infrared emissivity of ordinary fabrics It is generally less than 0.78 and the UPF value is between 15-17. In other words, garments made from Rikenon's pearl fabric have stronger far-infrared thermal protection and UV protection than normal clothing.

Wearing pearl fiber fabrics on the body, more than ten kinds of amino acids and trace elements in the pearl fiber will also regulate and improve the micro-environment between the skin and the personal clothing by participating in the metabolism of the body, and have a health-care effect on the mechanism.

Corn fiber. The cellulose in the corn ear shell is extracted and then purified to form corn fiber. This fiber manufacturing technology is low in cost, and can be made into a T-shirt about every 3 pounds of corn fiber shell extracted fiber. Excellent corn fiber drape, comfort and feel, good curling, elasticity, shrinkage, dyeing with disperse dyes, good moldability, low flammability, low smoke, and not easily affected by ultraviolet light influences. What is more important is that corn fiber is easily biodegradable and does not pollute the environment. The PLA (polylactic acid) fiber made of corn instead of polyester and wool blended, not only does not undermine the original feel of the wool style, and the fabric made with the blended yarn can also be low temperature processing. Since this fiber is made of raw materials such as corn, it is harmless to the human body and can be composted after use or decomposed into carbon dioxide and water in the natural environment.

In addition, marijuana, anions, and their composite functional fibers ... more and more biological and mineral raw materials have entered the textile field in turn, and more new materials will be added to the textile industry to create new areas for the fabrics. It provides a broader space for facials, clothing and even the entire textile industry.

The rise of recycled materials

The American ski enthusiast Austin's ski suit is made from recycled waste coke bottles. This fabric has a sleek name - "sustainable fabric," made from recycled coke bottles, fiber from old clothes, natural hemp, and non-toxic dyes. Even if it is more expensive than the market, environmental protection enthusiasts Austin is pleased to accept.

In fact, this technology of using waste and fiber to reconstitute garments has existed in Europe and the United States for many years. Brands such as H&M and Top Shop have begun to place clothing made from recycled products in prominent positions in stores, and people are increasingly accepting the concept of low-carbon equipment.

However, in China this is a completely new concept. In the low-end industrial chain where old clothes are recycled and processed, in the remote areas of the city, many small clothing recycling factories shredding old clothes into mops or quilts for farmers, and then selling them to more remote areas. . It is difficult for old clothes to return to urban people.

Now a Japanese company brings this recyclable garment material to China. This new type of eco-friendly fabric is called: ECO CIRCLE (Eco-Circle), provided by Teijin Co., Ltd. to Li Ning. This is a kind of fabric developed by Japan in 2002. The recycled polyester clothes are made into regenerated polyester fiber fabrics through pulverization, chemical reaction, polymerization and other steps. This kind of material is used in the old American outdoor products Patagonia. . “The clothes on my body come from recycled materials. It comes from various countries,” said Kazuo Kasei, president of Teijin Fiber Co., Ltd. in Japan. This is somewhat surprising, because this tailored suit looks no different from ordinary clothing.

Under the “old” global trend, the first global GRS (Textile and Garment) Recycling Standard has also been introduced. An organization called the Management Alliance Certification Organization has classified the product's recycling standards into three grades: Copper, Silver and Gold. The gold standard requires products to contain 95% to 100% of recycled materials, silver standard products to contain 70% to 95% of recycled materials, and copper standards to contain no less than 30% of recycled materials. Clothing that passes this standard certification will be emblazoned with gold, silver, and bronze markers for consumers to see at a glance.

Author: Asi ( "29579,29814,32,23004,28113,26757") Wang Yao Jiang Shumei